For watch collectors, there is a trifecta that some believe are worth owning and that is a racing sports watch, a diving watch and a pilot/aviation watch.
And what better to know more about aviation watches than Rizzoli New York’s “Air Time: Watches Inspired by Aviation, Aeronautics, and Pilots” by Mike Bernardo.
Through this book, I can say that I learned a lot and for me, it is a great resource of aviation watches and how earlier watches compare to the more modern versions of today. And where some of today’s modern aviation watches drew their inspiration from.
The hardcover book is about 240 pages, featuring wonderful information, big photos of the watches and also some advertisements from back in the day! It’s an easy read and is one of the better watch books that I own in my collection.
From learning how it began back in 1904 when Louis Cartier designed a watch for his friend, aviation pioneer Alberto-Santos Dumont. Cartier’s purpose was to create a watch for aviators to tell the time during mid-flight. Also, so his dear friend didn’t have to pull out his stop watch while flying, as it was dangerous.
The first aviation wristwatch had a geometric dial and roman numerals.
This would lead to others wearing a wristwatch made by other companies and Charles Lindbergh with Longines designed the hour angle watch in 1931. This was a unique watch which was a navigational instrument for aviators to calculate longitude and when combined with their latitude, would give them their exact geographical location. Amelia Earhart would also sport a Longines watch for her flights.
But it wasn’t until 1936, when the company IWC (International Watch Co.) would create the military aviation watch (436 Mark IX). First featured with bold, Arabic numerals and a rotating bezel with a luminous marker and four years later, would produce the popular reference 431 military navigator watch aka “B-Uhr”. Better known today as “The Big Pilot” watch.
The watch was huge at 55mm and featured thick sword shape hands, inset Arabic numerals and a clear minute track with a triangle at 12 o’clock and a big onion shape crown. These were made to make things easier for pilots to see and access their watch.
So, while Cartier will be known as creating the first aviation watch, Longines for a navigation watch. IWC’s watches became the template which many other watch companies would similarly follow. Especially the big white triangle at the 12 o’clock position.
And then you started to see watches become more advance, thanks to Breitling’s Navitimer which was innovative in features. While the Omega Speedmaster became the first speedmaster taken to the moon.
But these aviation watches became popular and for watch collectors, these watches have been added to the collections of watch owners who wanted to have a pilot watch in their collection that suited their taste and finances and can be now found in luxury, mid-range and also inexpensive pricing. It all comes down to brand name and features.
While I did wish there were other aviation watches featured, especially with Japanese movement, it’s still an excellent book/resource on aviation watches out there! Also, great for the coffee table as wear for watch fans!
Rizzoli New York’s “Air Time: Watches Inspired by Aviation, Aeronautics, and Pilots” by Mike Bernardo is highly recommended!
