I had to file a report at the police station and file a report with train staff after my phone was taken in Ikebukuro and I was able to track the movement of my phone to Shinjuku Station via GPS (I’ll probably blog about this experience in the future).
But when you are early at Shinjuku Station and have to wait for things to open up, you are left with few options but the Starbucks or a cafe called BERG.
I have read about BERG and how it’s one of few restaurants that have fought against eviction, fought for its right to be a smoking-friendly cafe. Needless to say, I don’t delve into the politics, I experience what I want to experience and share that experience for my readers.
While the small shop may seem like a hole-in-the-wall type of cafe at Shinjuku Station, the cafe is actually is popular for its beer and alcohol.
But also for those who like to smoke, as the location is one of the few locations in Tokyo where smokers can find refuge.
There are tables for non-smoking but it reminded me of my grandfather’s apartment, he smoked a lot and even when you went into places where he didn’t smoke, you’re not going to get away around it. I was worried that my clothes would come out smelling like cigarettes, but fortunately that was not the case.
It was my first time at Berg and while I was sitting there eating my breakfast, while I had my morning coffee, I observed dozens of people around me were drinking beer or sake. It’s like a cool hangout for beer and sake enthusiasts. In fact, the place brings wine from France, Italy, Spain and South Africa and often does a wine of the month feature.
A lot of people purchase beer tickets, so they can drink a lot. For one you can get beer for 300 yen but pay Y3200 and get 11 beers. So, it’s a great incentive if you bring your friends.
Place was popular for Sapporo’s Edelpils and Ebisu.
But I was happy to see that they sold their own coffee. Not sure where it’s sourced but I did enjoy their coffee!
And the location hires people who are enthusiastic and are craftsman who are committed to a certain section (ie. coffee, wine, sausage, eggs, etc.). In other words, they are very careful where they get their supplies, down to their sausage, bread and eggs.
As I looked into BERG, I realize that they celebrated their 29th anniversary and in 2020, it will be their 30th anniversary! The cafe opened back on July 25, 1990.
I was also surprised they promote artists and will have exhibitions at the cafe:
I also enjoyed the customer service and how cool the staff were. Wanting to know where I’m traveling from and if anything, the place was full of good vibes.
I was actually expecting something danky and unpleasant (for some reason, I was thinking it would be like small town bars in the middle of highway, somewhere nowhere) but it turned out that BERG was a long-standing establishment of Shibuya Station where people come to drink early in the morning and late and also to get a quick bite and the vibe was quite lively.
Granted, the smell of cigarette smoke is part of the ambiance of BERG and while I didn’t see any too drunk individuals at the cafe, I imagine that the cafe has a lot of regulars.
I do know there was a flame war that ignited in 2018 for non-smokers who felt that the location did not abolish their smoking practices. My feeling about this is that while I’m not an advocate for smoking, because really, I don’t like cigarette smoke or to be around it, I do feel that if you know that a restaurant caters to customers that smoke, if you don’t want to be around it, then don’t go.
I knew when I was about to walk in, I smelled the smoke, but you know what, I was all good about going in and experiencing BERG for the first time.
One told me this is one of the gems of the Showa era. NOTE: BERG opened in 1990, Showa era ended on January 7, 1989, so it’s technically a Heisei Era cafe but Showa Era style. But as I talked to regulars, they meant gems of Showa Era in terms of the style. Such as the ability for one to hang out and smoke like Shinjuku in the past.
And the place has regulars that have come everyday for a very long time!
And because it’s one of the few early morning destinations that opens at 7:00 a.m. (BERG closes at 11:00 p.m.) at Shinjuku Station, it does get a bit crowded (but it’s not a long wait to get a seat as many people are in and out).
Early in the morning, they sell all kinds of food. You pay for your food first and then get a seat (hopefully there is one available).
So, they have a hot dog /sausage sandwich menu, I just went with the ham and egg with two pieces of toast set with coffee and was under Y500. Through the menu, one will notice the German influence with the food offered.
For this location, have yen or your IC Card (ala Suica) on hand if you want to pay.
While I’m a non-smoker and tend to avoid places that are smoking, I sometimes will eat at places that allow smoking, especially if the restaurant or cafe catches my interest.
And as mentioned, I was at Shinjuku Station quite early and there are a few places open.
I’m glad that I did check out BERG because it’s no doubt a place that has a history with its customers. They want to serve healthy food and quality beverages, but also want to be a place where people shouldn’t feel excluded if they are smokers or if they want to drink whenever they want. In a way, it’s almost like a juxtaposition of ideals but whatever works. And in the case of BERG, it’s obviously working with great success!
I also have to give props to BERG for their promotion of the arts and music. From showcasing photographers work and also the work of artists. That’s pretty awesome!
I do feel that cafe’s liker BERG are becoming a rarity and I can understand why many people eat and drink at the location. It’s one of those restaurants from the past that thrive despite the change of society. In a way, it’s a rebellious type of setting but it’s an energy that Deputy Manager (and talented photographer) Sakokawa Naoko and Manager Ino Tomoya and staff bring to BERG and they are quite passionate about it and I like to see BERG continue what has been successful for them for nearly 30 years.
So, if you are wanting a smoking friendly cafe or a cafe that serves food and alcohol from 7:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. and happen to be at Shinjuku Station (Lumine East), definitely give BERG a try!
