I have been a big fan of Tartan. The cloth with patterns of colored boxes and intersecting lines (there are a few checked patterns as well) and a pattern that has deep roots in Scottish tradition.
While tartan is a big part of Scottish tradition and is thought to have originated in the region in the 17th century, archaeologist are starting to learn that early tartan patterns may have been created 3,000 years earlier possibly by the Celts.
My favorite is the Campbell Clan Tartan, better known worldwide as the “Black Watch Tartan” which is typically colored in black, dark blue and green and its history goes back to the weavers from the county of Clan Grant.
Back in 1725, after the 1715 Jacobite Rebellion, General George Wade, the Commander-in-Chief in North Britain, advised King George I to create a “watch” that would patrol the Scottish highlands and disarm highlanders and bring criminals to justice.
These “watch” featured originally six Black Watch companies, four added in 1739, and they would be known as The Black Watch. While there is no definitive answer to why they were called “Black Watch” (there are numerous theories), what we know in modern times is that it is still used today by the Royal Regiment of Scotland. (You can read more from Macgregor and Macduff).
Black Watch Modern
It’s important to note that there are other tartans that look similar to Black Watch Modern, so try not to get confused. Use the Lochcarron Tartan Finder, if you don’t know.
Sutherland Hunting Modern
Austin Modern
Munro Hunting Modern
MacKay Modern
Grant Hunting Modern
For those who are into fashion, Tartan are sold by numerous companies, may it be kilts, wool ties, wool pants, shirts, jackets, scarves, etc.
Now one thing that confuses people is the term “tartan” and “plaid”.
Tartan describes patterns with interlocking stripes, horizontal and vertical and “plaid” meant blanket. There are many designs of tartan and many people don’t know that these tartan designs represent Scottish clans, families, towns, districts, corporations, events, etc. Tartan is predominately made of wool and used to make kilts, accessories and clothing. For those who follow tartans, there is special meaning.
In fact, in Scotland, people could tell through a person’s tartan if they were friend or foe, as the dyes are based off the plant life of that region. Going to modern times, Locharron of Scotland has created a tartan finder so one can check to see what they are interested in.
It’s also fun to learn more about the patterns, which clan represented them. Definitely much better than calling it “Christmas plaid” or “holiday plaid”.
As mentioned, plaid is the gaelic word for blanket.
In the US, “plaid” is used loosely to describe patterns that have checkered patterns and there is no association to a historic clan. People purchase it to look cool or to decorate their home or wear because it looks cool. Many US companies call their tartan products plaid.
In the UK, “plaid” is a tartan piece worn over the shoulder of a kilt outfit.
Being an American, I can tell you that my tartan ties are originally from the UK. I like to seek out vintage tartan ties from Scotland, but also keep an eye out for sales from various companies (which I will list below). I also want to make sure when I do purchase a tartan tie overseas, I personally like to know about the clan name represented.
For example, I have a Johnstone tartan tie.
While I’m American, I’d like to know more about the tartan tie that I’m sporting. Personally, I loved the pattern and the way the yellow is used. But of course, with the Johnstone name, I wanted to look more into Clan Johnstone and in doing research, I learned that Clan Johnstone were once the most powerful of the Border Reiver Scottish clans.
I own an Ettrick scarf and tie and also a throw blanket on my sofa. I learned that Ettrick is a small village in Scotland. But also, the name Ettrick is a river (known as Ettrick Water) by the village of Ettrickbridge and the historic town of Selkirk. In South Selkirkshire, James Hogg was an Ettrick Shepherd and a native of the parish. Hogg was also a poet, novelist and essayist. But in terms of the Ettrick tartan, it was registered in a book prior to the launch of the “The Scottish Register of Tartans”. The sett appeared in J&D Paton’s collection (which has been put together since the 1830s) and may be inspired by Clan Wallace’s tartan which has yellow.
Again, for me, part of the most satisfying aspect of wearing a tartan is also knowing the history behind it. I also had interest when my DNA said I had a percentage of Scottish (sadly, after several years of believing I had Scottish DNA, with the 2021 Ancestry DNA update, it has now changed) but I still have interest in learning the clan behind each clothing, tie or scarf with a tartan pattern that I purchase.
Sure, here in the U.S., the tartan patterns have been promoted as part of preppy culture or as a fashion style. Some correlate it with holiday culture as well. If anything, no one is going to cry out cultural appropriation on those wearing or showcasing tartan patterns, but personally, it’s good to know about the history or tradition behind it.
In America, Ralph Lauren is a designer that loves Blackwatch Tartan. In fact, there was a polo team in the US known as BlackWatch which is owned by Neil Hirsch and sponsored by Ralph Lauren (it helped that the team’s starplayer, Nacho Figureras was a longtime Ralph Lauren model). And there is no doubt that the clothing played a major role of people wearing Ralph Lauren Blackwatch Tartan in the US and people showcasing tartan patterns during the holidays.
But for those who want a quality Tartan, I recommend getting it from those who specialize in it and showcase world class craftmanship, I definitely recommend checking out Lochcarron of Scotland, Macgregor and Macduff, Kinloch Anderson Scotland, ScotlandShop, Clan, Ingles Buchanan and The House of Edgar. For those in the US, who are not so sure if you want to order overseas, then there is always Ralph Lauren.
