In the first part of my post about Chion-in, the large temple in Higashiyama, Kyoto, I wrote about how it was the headquarters for Jodo-shu and how it was founded by Honen.
But like many temples in Japan, the originals were often destroyed during a war or by fire, but what about Chion-in, how much of it is still original or has it been rebuilt?
The original temple built in 1234 by Honen’s disciple, Genchi (1183-1238) in memory of his master and named Chion-in.
But around1467-1477, 230 years after the original was built, the Onin War between Hosokawa Katsumoto and Yamana Sozen escalated and would initiate the Sengoku period, in which individual daimyo would fight one another for a power struggle for Japan.
But back to the Onin War. What happened was that shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa was looking for an heir because he had none. Who would succeed him?
He persuaded his younger brother, Ashikaga Yoshimi, to abandon his life as a monk and become the heir in 1464.
But shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa and his wife Hino Tomiko, would give birth to a baby named Yoshihisa the following year. This immediately caused friction because by birthright, Yoshihisa would be the next heir. But Yoshimasa was chosen to be the their because at the time, Yoshimasa didn’t have one.
Furthermore, Tomiko sought political and military support to rule as regent until the birth of her son, who would become the future shogun, Ashikaga Yoshihisa. She received the support from Yamana Sozen and other leaders of powerful samurai clans but Yoshimi had the support of the Hosokawa clan, a powerful clan who had great influence on the shogunate court. This dispute would eventually lead to the Onin War and the beginning of the Sengoku Period.
By 1469, Ashikaga Yoshihisa would become the heir to Ashikaga Yoshimasa. Yoshimi would become branded a “rebel” by the Emperor, stripped of his court rank and
Kyoto became literally a hell hole, a place which thieves looted and as for Chion-in, numerous buildings were burnt down in 1633, but were rebuilt by the third Tokugawa shogun Iemitsu which stand today.
As for the baby Yoshihisa, he would become the 9th Shogun of the Ashikaga Shogunate from 1473 to 1489 and would die that final year in a campaign against the Sasaki Takayori and his ill father would resume administration, but die the following year.
As for Chion-in, since it’s been around for over 1800 years, there have been rebuilds, restructuring but there are also original elements which stand today.
It’s important to note that on the day I went, there was a major storm and despite it being open to the public, many areas were closed, so I was unable to get a lot of photos and even the photos I took, unfortunately, due to the heavy rain, I was barely able to get photos that weren’t smudged or had rain drops on the lens. So, I apologize for that.
The main gate is known as Sanmon and is regarded as a National Treasure.
This was erected in 1621 by Hidetada, the second shogun of Tokugawa and it’s 24 meters high, 50 meters wide and has about 70,000 roof tiles. It’s one of the largest wooden gates in Japan and right on the top middle is “Sanmon”.
It’s probably one of the most breathtaking gates I have ever seen. I was truly impressed by the look from far away, the construction and the fact that it’s 400-years old.
What many people don’t know is that the inside of the upper part of the roof is a Buddhist temple, with a Buddha statue. There is also a white casket, one of the seven mysteries, and a wooden statue of Mr. and Mrs. Kinemon Gomi, a magistrate who was ordered to build Sanmon. Unfortunately, this area is private, so we can’t go on top but still you can still marvel at the construction of this wooden gate. It’s amazing!
The Mikagedo is a national treasure and enshrines the Miei of the original Honen and is called the “Great Hall”. The current Mikagedo was built in 1639 by Tokugawa’s third shogun Iemitsu and you can hear the voice of Buddhist priests from the hall. A Honen Shonin memorial service is held in April every year and an Ominuguishiki ceremony in December.
Due to the storm, unfortunately this was closed down and I was unable to see the interior.
Currently going through construction when I was at the location was Kyozo. This was built in 1621 and stands on the east of Mikagedo.
Inside features ceilings and walls painted by Kano school painters. There is an octagonal ring that has 6,000 tatami mats.
Unfortunately, this is something I really wanted to see and is designated as an important cultural property but due to construction, I was not able to go inside to see the paintings.
The Amidado stands on the west side of Mikagedo and was built during the Meiji era.
Long ago, Amidado was erected in front of the Seishido by Chion-in but was relocated in 1710. But by the Meiji era, the original’s condition was starting to have problems that it had to be demolished and rebuilt in 1910.
Inside is the Amida Nyorai statue which is 2.7 meters high and in front is an otaji. This is the shinkan of Emperor Go-Nara.
Amida Nyorai (Sanskrit: Amitabha Tathagata), the Buddha of Limitless Light, sits upon a lotus pedestal with his hands forming the mudra of meditation.
A peaceful temple for those who worship Amida Nyorai.
To be truthful, I am not sure what this build is. Aside from the fact that it’s called Amida-do. But it looks cool!
The location has its own store it seems.
But there is more to Chion-in and I will discuss more of it in Part 3!
